It might cause some damage to the pinsetter

Modern industrial society has provided us with numerous nicely standardised massive objects. Batteries. Golf balls. Beer cans (consume beverage, re-fill with concrete).

And bowling balls.

They're really just asking for it, aren't they?

These bowling-ball and beer-can mortars are being demonstrated during either a very determined celebration of the Second Amendment to the United States Constitution, or the Battle of Stalingrad.

I find it hard to believe that the person who designed this one's ignition system was sober at the time. (Questions may also be asked about anybody who stands calmly in front of the muzzle.)

At lest they didn't shoot it straight up, though.

(I suppose if that's good enough for the anvil shooters...)

The alarming noises at 1:35 of this video may just be the bowling ball's finger-holes whistling as it spins. Or perhaps the whole thing shattered into a shrieking cloud of polyester shrapnel.

A bit long-winded, but some physics calculations at the end.

The 2011 MythBusters bowling-ball cannon would probably have had similar explanations...

...had this not happened.

Fellow Discovery Channel program American Guns did it in a somewhat less highbrow manner.

And now for something almost completely different:

Bianca Lamb And Her Unstoppable Pastel Death Machine

I've been not writing blog posts while worrying about finishing my next Atomic columns, and not writing my next Atomic columns while worrying about finishing blog posts.

So here are some Fabuland mecha.

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user lego_nabii)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user Uspez Morbo)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user Chiefrocker9000)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user lego_nabii)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user Sir Nadroj)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user sirxela)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user mahjqa)

Fabuland mecha
(Image source: Flickr user ToT-LUG)

Knife-trinket du jour

Boker credit-card knife

There's this little folding knife, made by Boker, called the "Boker Plus Credit Card Knife". Its unique selling point is that if you remove its pocket clip and fold the knife up, it'll fit in a credit-card pocket in your wallet.

The Credit Card Knife has a gratuitous titanium handle, lightening cut-outs and some other silly bullet-point features, and its street price is about $US20. Opinions concerning it are mixed, though, chiefly because it uses a modern blade-safety idea, but not very well.

The blade of a normal folding knife folds into a slot in the handle. The Credit Card Knife's handle is just one flat piece of metal, next to rather than around the blade, but the the blade is chisel-ground - one side has an edge ground on it, and the other side is flat. When closed, the blade's flat side lies flush against the handle, so it can't cut anything.

Peculiar-knife megabrand Columbia River Knife and Tool use this design on their popular, and excellent, "K.I.S.S." and "P.E.C.K." lines. It works really well, as long as the blade lies perfectly flush with the handle.

The design of the Boker knife means the edge doesn't actually lie quite flat on the handle. There's a gap, of maybe half a millimetre at best, but that's enough for the blade to retain some wood-plane-like cutting power. The knife is still fine to keep in a wallet, but not great to have bouncing around in your pocket, and if you run your finger down the edge when it's folded, you can give yourself a shallow cut.

The Boker's list price is a bit steep, too; it's $US34.95. You can get one for $US21.66 ex delivery on Amazon, or for $US21-ish delivered on eBay.

When you buy cheap major-brand knives cheap on eBay, though, there's a significant chance you're getting a Chinese knockoff (as opposed to the genuine article, often also made in China...). The quality of knockoffs can be very good; many Chinese factories sneakily make extra units of whatever they're contracted to make when the company that contracted them isn't looking, or similarly sneakily sell on units that failed quality-control testing, possibly only for cosmetic reasons.

Other Chinese knockoffs, though, are obvious, because they're only broadly similar to the item they're copying.

Card knife open

Which is the case here.

This knife (which carries the "Columbia" pseudo-brand, entirely unassociated with Columbia River) is a shameless, but far from identical, copy of the Boker. It has the same blade-gap problem, but it lacks the gratuitous titanium handle and other fripperies, and it's substantially cheaper.

As I write this, eBay Buy It Now prices for this knockoff are up around $US11, or you can lowball various auctions [UPDATE: I've improved that eBay search to find this knife under some more names] until you get one much cheaper. My 1337 eBay sniping skillz got me this one for $AU2.75 delivered, at which price I think a knife is good value even if it opens in your pocket and stabs you in the femoral artery and your lifeless body is later found in the middle of a huge congealing pool of blood.

Card knife closed

Folded up, the knockoff knife is about 66mm wide by 33mm high (2.6 by 1.3 inches), by 3mm thick if you only count the blade and the handle. Or about 7mm thick at the hinge pin, which is a simple button-head hex screw instead of the show-off hollow pin of the Boker original. Or about 9mm thick, if you include the hinge pin on one side and the removable pocket clip on the other.

It weighs about 36 grams (1.3 ounces) with the pocket clip, about 33 grams (1.2 oz) without. The Boker original is 1.1 ounces, about 31 grams, with pocket clip. Yep, that titanium handle's totally worth the extra money!

A standard credit card has a much larger footprint - about 86 by 54mm - but is much thinner, only about 0.7mm overall or about 1mm if you include raised lettering. But because this knife's height-by-width footprint is so small, it still fits OK in a credit-card wallet pocket, despite being at least three times as thick as a card.

I'm still not totally sold on the keeping-it-in-your-wallet idea, though, especially if you're one of those strangely numerous weirdos who put their wallet in a back pocket and sit on it all the time. Do that, and the little knife will try pretty hard to snap any credit cards it's being forcibly stacked up next to.

You could tuck the folded knife at one end end of a zip-up back-of-wallet pocket, though; it's also just about perfect for the little "Zippo pocket" in a pair of jeans. Many, many other possible locations suggest themselves, for such a tiny knife. The miscellaneous side pocket of your camera bag. Stuck to some other steel object with a magnet. Your car glovebox. You get the idea.

Card knife open, back

If you want to clip the knife onto a pocket, though, you're probably going to have to fiddle with it a bit. The clip on the knife I got was way too springy, requiring a ridiculous amount of pants-mangling effort to jam it onto anything. When I bent the clip back a bit, though, it worked.

The preferable way to bend the clip is by removing its three retaining screws with a little #8 Torx driver or similarly tiny Allen key, and then bending the clip in a vise. Just jamming a chunky flat screwdriver under the clip and levering will probably work too. From past experience I expected the clip to just snap when I tried to bend it, because "$2.75 Chinese folding knife" and "meticulous heat-treating of springy components" are terms not often found near each other. But it actually worked fine, on my knife's clip at least.

The knife is easiest to use without the clip on it at all. The handle is of course very thin - about 1.3mm - so it's not comfortable to use for long periods of time. But the little finger scallops on the edge of the handle actually give you quite a good index-and-middle-finger grip; it's not an instant ticket to repetitive strain injury like a P-38 can opener.

My $2.75 knife had some other flaws, too. As is usually the case for cheap Chinese knives, the machine-ground blade wasn't sharp all the way to the tip, so I had to touch that up. The rest of the edge is very sharp, though, and the super-shallow chisel grind makes this little knife a surprisingly excellent slicer and whittler, right out of the box.

Fit and finish overall is OK. The shiny metal showing through the cheap black coating on the built-up corner piece of my knife, for instance, is there because I filed that corner down to get the screw-heads flush with the surface. But, much more importantly, the blade's frame lock (an evolution of the liner lock) works well, with almost no play and no desire to close on your hand even if you rap the back of the blade on a table.

(As a general rule, you should be suspicious of cheap liner-lock knives; a poorly-implemented liner lock can and will close on your hand. Get a back-lock, or "lockback", knife instead; they're harder for sloppy manufacturers to get wrong. Or, of course, get a "fixed blade" knife, that doesn't fold at all.)

The smallness of the knife does make it a little dicey to open and close, safety-wise, but the basic stolen Boker design is sound.

For twenty bucks, even the fancy Boker version of this thing is not a tremendously attractive product. This knockoff for ten bucks is decent. For five bucks or less via an auction, it's really nice, and works surprisingly well.

Card knife dragon

Plus, there is a dragon embossed on it.

A frickin' dragon, dude!


If you just search eBay for credit-card knives, you'll currently find a lot of these "survival tools" (I bought one; it's about as convenient to use as you'd think, but it is indeed small and any tool is better than no tool), and also a lot of knockoffs of the Ian Sinclair CardSharp. The CardSharp and its copies have the dimensions of a normal credit card, with a blade in the middle; the rest of the thing cunningly folds around the blade to make a handle. I don't know if the CardSharp knockoffs are any good, but they sure are cheap, so I bought one and will write about it when it arrives.

Duelling flashlights

As a postscript to my post about fluorescence, here are red, green and blue Ultrafire 501Bs attempting to create white:

RGB flashlights

They actually do a decent job of it if you just hold them together in a bunch, or hold one in each hand and one in your mouth so you can aim the light all into one pool, like the old EternaLight Rave'n:

EternaLight Rave'n combined beam

Any one of the coloured Ultrafires makes a decent flashlight all by itself. Red if you're feeling sexy, ominous or both, green for maximum visibility, blue for a particularly unearthly look, including that unexpected fluorescence. I really do highly recommend them. Why use a boring white flashlight when you can have something fun instead?

(They also partner well with my...

Bullseye flashlight

...elderly "bullseye" flashlight. It's excellent for seeing where you're about to step at night with dark-adapted eyes; the much narrower and far brighter beams of the Ultrafire lights are great for seeing things further away.)

Coloured flashlights are completely unsuitable for some tasks, like reading maps; shine a red light on a multi-coloured map and any markings with no red in 'em will look black. For everyday flashlight tasks, though, why not do it the sci-fi B-movie way?

You can get these lights on eBay for $US9.99 delivered for just a lamp to put into any Ultrafire-or-other-branded SureFire clone, or for less than $US15 delivered for a whole flashlight with coloured lamp. As I said in the fluorescence post, a red, a green and a blue Ultrafire 501B, plus three 18650 lithium cells to power them and a charger, will only cost you about $US50 delivered, for the lot. Pretend you're getting them to educate your kids about additive and subtractive colour, if it helps.

Now I'm going to have to get an infrared and an ultraviolet one, too. Infrared Ultrafires sell for $US20 to $US30 delivered, and their beam will be clearly visible to any digital camera that doesn't have a good IR-cut filter in front of the sensor.

Actually, even cameras that do have such a sensor can see near-IR...

IR photo

...but only with a long exposure that'll blur moving subjects:

Millie the cat in near IR

You could cut the exposure time down quite a lot by lighting a small target with a high-powered IR LED flashlight like this, or using a dedicated IR flash (expensive) or a filter on a conventional flash. But you probably still won't be able to use a properly fast motion-stopping shutter speed unless you've got a camera with no IR filter, or make one yourself. (Or pay someone else to make one for you, complete with tweaking the autofocus so it works properly in the new waveband, but that's cheating.)

Ultraviolet Ultrafire flashlights cost little more than the visible-light ones, but the cheap UV models are barely UV at all. They emit a purple light with a wavelength up around 400 nanometres; this excites fluorescence in various objects quite well...

Near-UV LED flashlight making Easter eggs glow
(Image source: Flickr user davecobb)

...but is clearly visible to the naked eye.

"True" UV LEDs exist too; they have an output wavelength of 370 nanometres or less. (I reviewed a Photon key-ring 370nm light years ago, here.) 370nm light is still visible to the naked eye, but is now a faint white (it's not a great idea to stare down the barrel of a bright near-UV LED flashlight, by the way). As the wavelength gets shorter, the visibility of the light from the LED itself, as opposed to whatever fluorescence it excites in other objects, fades away.

Searching for Ultrafire lights with "nm" in the listing currently turns up an alleged 365nm flashlight for $US19.96 delivered.

Buy one, before someone in government discovers that staring into the beam for minutes on end can damage your eyes, and bans them!

Lego engineering miracle du jour

Behold...

...the Lego Basket Shooter module, from general-purpose Lego-Technic demigod "Akiyuky", whose Japanese blog is here.

Each of the three shooters has individually controllable aim and power, which is what makes the machine's nigh-miraculous accuracy possible.

Via TechnicBricks, here's how it works.

The shooter is meant to work as a Great Ball Contraption module (previously), accepting balls from an input, doing its thing with them, and then delivering them to an output. Only the (surprisingly large percentage of) balls that go through the basket go to the output.

Here's a Contraption composed of 17 of Akiyuky's modules.

8-bit CPU made of Lincoln Logs still pending

It's always Lego, Lego, Lego around here. Lego this, Lego that, Lego movie projector, Lego-ish Daleks. Other construction toys barely rate a mention.

Even the stuff that looks like Meccano sometimes turns out to be Lego.

So here's an operational skeeball machine made entirely out of K'Nex (if you don't count some paper and rubber bands).

(Via.)

If Erno Rubik built a clock

The Time Twister, to the best of my knowledge unrelated to a certain drinking establishment promoted by Cheech Marin, is a digital clock made out of Lego.

That is all.

Posted in Hacks, Toys. 4 Comments »

Boomting!

There are disadvantages to living on several acres out in the country.

It's a long walk to the shops. Fast Internet can be a problem. If you're having a heart attack, the ambulance may come too late.

But on the other hand, there's this.

(I'm sure I've linked to videos of anvil shooting on previous occasions; hell, the pastime's even had its own TV special now. But if anything deserves a repost...)

Some might suggest that standard anvil patterns have a hollow in the bottom because it saves a little weight and a little money, and has no effect on the all-important hammer-bounciness of the top surface.

Others know the real reason.